Finishes for Solid Wood Furniture: Oil, Wax, French Polish, Melamine, Lacquer and PU Compared

What a finish does

Bare wood absorbs moisture, stains and dirt, and is easily marked. A finish:

• Slows moisture exchange, so the wood moves less with the seasons (it never stops it entirely; see kiln-dried wood).
• Protects the surface from spills, heat and wear.
• Changes the look: deepens colour, adds sheen, or keeps the wood looking raw.

Finishes fall into two families. Penetrating finishes soak into the wood. Film finishes build a layer on top.

The finishes compared

Oils and hard-wax oils

Oils soak into the fibres and harden, enhancing the grain while leaving the surface feeling like wood. Modern hard-wax oils add a thin protective wax and are considerably tougher than traditional oils.

Pros: natural look and feel, no peeling, and scratches can be repaired by cleaning and re-oiling just that area.

Cons: less protection against water rings and hot dishes; needs periodic maintenance.

Shellac and French polish

Shellac is a natural resin dissolved in alcohol. French polishing applies many very thin coats with a cloth pad to build a deep, glowing gloss. It is the classic finish on antique Indian and colonial furniture.

Pros: unmatched depth and warmth, and it can be repaired and revived by a skilled polisher.

Cons: water, heat and alcohol leave white rings and marks. Best for display pieces and furniture that is not used for eating or drinking.

Melamine

In Indian furniture making, "melamine polish" is a widely used, economical film finish. It is harder than shellac and gives a smooth satin or glossy look.

Pros: cost and appearance.

Cons: moderate durability; it is more prone to white marks from water and heat than PU, and wears through faster on edges.

Nitrocellulose lacquer

NC lacquer is sprayed, dries very quickly, and builds a smooth film. Like shellac, new coats partly dissolve old ones, which makes repairs blend in well. It is less resistant to heat, solvents and water than PU. (In painted form it is the basis of what many call a "duco" finish; see laminate vs veneer vs PU vs duco.)

Polyurethane (PU)

PU cures into a hard, flexible film with the best resistance to water, heat, scratches and household chemicals of these finishes. It can be clear or pigmented and ranges from dead-matte to high gloss.

Pros: durability on surfaces used every day; dining tables and work surfaces stay looking new.

Cons: a slightly more "coated" feel than oil; spot repairs are difficult, and a damaged area often means refinishing the whole top.

Choosing a finish by piece

Good finishing practice

1. Seasoned wood first. No finish saves badly dried timber.
2. Surface preparation. Most of a finish's quality comes from sanding and grain filling before the first coat.
3. Finish every face. Undersides and insides too, so both faces exchange moisture at the same rate and the piece does not cup.
4. Let it cure. Many finishes feel dry in hours but reach full hardness only after days or weeks.
5. Maintain it. Wipe spills, use mats under hot dishes, and dust with a soft dry cloth. See caring for wood furniture in the monsoon.

Finishing at SAAG

SAAG builds bespoke solid-wood furniture in-house, and the finish is chosen with each client for how the piece will be used. See our furniture portfolio, or tell us about the piece you have in mind.